We were privileged last week when our good friend Gilles Dumangin, purveyor and producer of some of the finest growers’ Champagne to found on the market, paid a visit to our H.Q. here in Mere to conduct a tasting that was both enlightening and virtually unrepeatable.

Gilles Dumangin

Gilles is 5th generation vigneron independent, based in the village of Chigny-les-Roses on the Montagne de Reims, and he has garnered a hard-earned reputation for fastidious blending, yielding wines that punch high above their modest price tags and, unsurprisingly, attract a lot of positive press attention.

Tonelles Rouge 2012

Gilles has long toyed with the notion of eliminating malolactic fermentation in his vinification process and a run of quite warm vintages, resulting in wines of relatively low acidity, has finally galvanised him to do so. For those who are not au fait with wine-making jargon malolactic fermentation is a natural process that occurs after alcoholic fermentation and involves the conversion of (citrussy) malic acids to (more creamy) lactic acids which can have a profound effect on the taste of the finished wine. Malolactic fermentation can be prevented through a painstaking combination of deploying sulphur dioxide, regulating temperature and scrupulous cellar management. Gilles explained to team Yapp that once malolactic fermentation starts in any one vat or barrel there is no putting the genie back in the bottle – it will occur throughout the cellar.

Team Yapp

To cut a long-ish story a little shorter Gilles successfully blocked the malolactic fermentation on his 2012 vintage and was keen to show us the results. He thus arrived chez Yapp with a raft of samples of the 2011 vintage, that had had a malolactic fermentation, as well as those from the corresponding grape varieties and vine parcels in the 2012 vintage that had not.

Vins Clairs

Gilles told us that in Champagne wine makers look for a high acidity in their still, base wines prior to secondary fermentation in bottle (whereby they become sparkling) as that helps give them both longevity and persistence on the palate. Coincidentally Gilles enjoyed one of his best ever harvests last year and the natural acid levels were much higher than normal anyway. This coupled with the blocked malolactic fermentation made for a marked difference between the tasting samples from the two vintages but it takes a seasoned palate to appreciate tooth-curlingly dry base wines prior to secondary fermentation and blending.

Cultivateur Gilles by David Chandler

We could tell from Gilles infectious enthusiasm and broad smile that he is delighted with the results. We have every faith in his abilities and look forward to tasting the results in five or so years time. Post tasting however, I was delighted to repair with Gilles to the Beckford Arms for a pint of reassuringly smooth and restorative Butcombe bitter – a failsafe antacid I can vouch for!

“Tight-knit, perfumed, intriguing… one of my favourite non-vintage fizzes.”
Jancis Robinson MW, on Dumangin Grande Réserve Brut, in the FT Weekend.

It is hard to believe that 5 years have already elapsed since Le Café Anglais first opened, in the Whitley’s building in Bayswater, bringing some welcome Parisian brasserie bravado and cool art deco influences to the metropolitan dining scene. Uncompromising chef-patron and FT food writer Rowley Leigh is a keen oenophile, as well as a creative cook, but although culturally-rich he is time-poor so it is extraordinarily hard to lure him away from his W2 stomping ground to attend wine tastings elsewhere. It is far better for the ‘mountain to come to Mohammad’ and to cajole him into sampling a few wines in his own restaurant; preferably over a languorous lunch.

Thus it was Friday last that I found myself once again in the company of this gastronomically-gifted polymath as he discoursed on topics as diverse as how to make a sauce Amercaine, the prospects of Paris Saint-Germain vs. Marseilles at the Parc des Princes this Sunday, the later works of Marc Chagall and where to dine in Barcelona. Anyone who witnessed his virtuoso performance on University Challenge – the Professionals will recall that Rowley would be an asset on any pub quiz team; if you could possibly persuade him to spare you his time.

I am sure that someone gave me a menu to look at as I gathered up the bottles we were to sample but it seems invidious to order from a menu one’s host has devised so, as ever, I let Rowley order on my behalf. Happily he is aware of my predilection (bordering on addiction) for pike boudin, which is a notoriously difficult dish to make, but a marvellous foil for white Northern Rhône wines, so he indulged me there.

Pike Boudin

We kicked-off our tasting with an unusual, white Vin de Pays from the Ardèche, made from a blend of Grenache and Sauvignon, that worked pretty well as a zesty palate-primer, and followed it up with an elegant Jacquère from the Savoie and a whistle-clean Menetou Salon from the ever-reliable Domaine Jean Tieller. All 3 wines accompanied the pike without embarrassment but it was Alain Graillot’s inimitable white Crozes-Hermitage that really lifted it onto a more hedonistic level.

We were then served a gorgeous game terrine (containing 2 teal, 3 pheasant and a woodcock) that went wonderfully with a juicy, old-vine Beaujolais Villages served at cellar temperature. That, in turn, was followed by Fredrik Filliatreau’s 2011 Saumur Champigny and a blameless 2009 Bordeaux Superieur from Château d’Abzac as we segued on to a rack of lamb braised with lentils and carrots.

A trio of bold, chest-thumping, southern reds, from the Minervois, Pic Saint-Loup and Bandol respectively, were paired with Mrs Kirkham’s sublime Lancashire cheese and Jamie Montgomery’s equally meretricious mature Cheddar. We then had a soupçon of Pascal Labasse’s Jurançon mœlleux as a decadent digestif and a token espresso to put a cap on proceedings.

As I’ve said before: ‘It’s tough work but someone has to do it’. I left the Café Anglais, as always, with a deep sense of contentment. Not least for having counted 6 bold ticks on le patron’s tasting sheet. I’ve a feeling it won’t be long before I’m back from more of that pike boudin that really is an excuse to visit number 8 Porchester Gardens in its’ own right!

It’s long been true that before people meet me for the first time they are half expecting to greet a kilted ginger haired man with a caber casually held over his shoulder – I don’t think names get much more Scottish than Hamish Catanach.

This weekend, while finally getting all the festive decorations back up into the loft, I stumbled on the hand written, now fading, Catanach family tree. My daughter was rather concerned that the family line appeared to stop at me and my sister (Fiona) – my 8 year old is of course used to the digital age of instant gratification so the fact a hand written document hadn’t been ‘updated’ just didn’t add up, but we could see that the Catanachs certainly date back to 1841 and hail from Aberdeen.

For a good run of about 5 consecutive years in the time BC (“Before Children”) we’d always hold Burns nights – and they remained a key January gathering for my friends – some were even genuine Scots! Each year the event gained more momentum, more people and more haggis.

Our makeshift band got tighter each year (we’d start rehearsing in the 1st week of January), and in the inevitable musical world of ‘one-upmanship’ I’ve seen the haggis ‘piped in’ (as it should be) but on one gathering in Harborne I have seen the haggis ‘double bass-ed’ into the lounge by a guy only known to me as ‘Smudge’.

So, Burns night 2013 – if you fancy hosting your own event, the band should by now be well rehearsed, guitars and pipes tuned, the swedes and potatoes should have been selected and maybe it’s time to buck the trend and match some wine to drink with haggis! A quick check with Meirion (the Yapp Shop Manager) got a great list of wines for us to try on January 25th this year. We both acknowledge that whisky is the standard match to haggis but we’re trying big and bold reds – and we’ve lined up Rasteau Côtes du Rhône Villages: Saint Gayan 2009, Bandol: Mas de la Rouvière Rouge 2007 and one of the Wines of the Month – Pic Saint-Loup: Mas Bruguière l’Arbouse 2011.

Just don’t forget the Selkirk Grace before you start proceedings!

Anyone in or around Bath this weekend not only braved some pretty inclement weather but may well have been dropping in to the 2nd floor of the Guildhall to taste a great selection of wines at the inaugural Bath Wine Gang event – http://www.thewinegang.com/
This was the last leg of the tour – Tom and Jason had already been to a great event in Scotland earlier this month – so we were ready to meet up with the oenophiles of Bath who had also braved the weather!
The Guildhall was a suitably grand venue and by 11am we were setting up, filling ice buckets and opening the wines. The Scottish event (now in it’s second year) had had great attendance, Bath however was a step into uncharted waters being the first time the tour had stopped here – but at just 25 miles away from Yapp HQ we were really looking forward to the day.
By 12.30pm we were in full swing, the guided wine tours were off and we welcomed a vast sway of wine enthusiasts, all of which were equally enjoying themselves and asking lots of questions.

By 2pm the word had got out about our ‘benchmark’ Sancerre (Sancerre Blanc: Les Perriers 2011) that was the talk of the event and most visitors were flocking to stand 31 with the ‘I hear you’re the ones with the Sancerre’ – and it’s always gratifying to see the Yapp wines being enjoyed with such genuine relish.
The event attracted all manner of wine lovers – across all ages and there was a real buzz in the room, so much so that the afternoon passed by without anyone really stopping to draw breath as we saw everyone twice, as it should be, with ‘ah, hello again we did the whites with you earlier – we’re now back for the reds’!
As I packed up the few bottles we hadn’t shared with the people of Bath and headed back home on the train, it was clear that the weather hadn’t dampened anyone’s spirits and we were already looking forward to the return leg(s) next year!

Catching early flights from Bristol and Heathrow respectively, Tom and I were uncorking bottles in the grand setting of Edinburgh’s Assembly Rooms by 11am on Saturday in preparation for The Wine Gang’s annual Scottish tasting. We were soon met by our winemaker friends Christine Campadieu from Collioure and Thomas Schmittel and Antoine Graillot from Crozes Hermitage.

The Wine Gang is a team of five experienced journalists – Anthony Rose, Joanna Simon, Tom Cannavan, David Williams and Jane Parkinson – and we were delighted to be joining them and a host of other merchants for their Caledonian caper.

We participate in numerous wine events, but few north of the Border and we can report that this is an extremely well-organised and well-attended function. Over three hundred attendees had the opportunity to taste a similar number of wines, as well as participating in themed ‘wine walks’ and tutored masterclasses.

Alain Graillot’s classic Crozes Hermitage in the superb 2010 vintage and Christine’s brilliant Banyuls Réserva were two of the most popular wines on our table and our supplies only just held out.

Christine Campadieu and Joanna Simon

By 6pm it was time to pack up and we were all in need of refreshment, so in long-standing wine trade tradition we repaired to the nearest hostelry for a beer – after a lengthy day, a pint of Caledonian 80’ proved to be a perfect pick-me-up.

On Sunday morning there was a buzz in the air on the Royal Mile as the All Blacks were in town. By great endeavour, we had managed to procure tickets for our rugby-loving winemakers and we joined the throng heading out to Murrayfield. Despite the best efforts of a spirited Scottish 15 who managed to score three tries of their own, the Kiwis outclassed them with some spectacular running rugby.

Hacked Off!

Par hazard, we happened to be sharing a hotel with the New Zealand squad, which made for fecund autograph hunting in the Itchycoo bar over a couple of single malts that evening. We’re now heading south with our vigneron chums for the next leg of our winter tasting tour in London.

In my dog-chewed copy of the Shorter Oxford English Dictionary the definition of ‘Apèritif’ states that the word derives from the verb ‘aperire’ (to open). I’m not sure if the idea is that the pre-dinner drink is the opening of the meal or one’s appetite but whichever it is to me it’s the Christmas Eve of meal time – full of promise and anticipation.

Round our place we like to kick off with a glass of dry white wine such as a Loire Chenin or Sauvignon or in summer a fresh rosé (never tastes the same in winter). Holidays are a chance to try something different and this year we have been lucky enough to make some delicious discoveries and revisit some old favourites.

Fillibulle chez Filliatreau

On our journey down through France we stayed at Château Fouquet with the very lovely Fred and Laurence Filliatreau. There we sampled some of their new, bone-dry sparkling rosé ‘Fillibulle’. This is a new departure and only 1000 bottles were made so it is not currently available in the UK. We’re looking forward to importing future vintages of this delightful and sophisticated wine.

Next up the much under rated Kir. Kir Royale seems more popular but an ice cold Kir is almost nicer and is a great drink to serve to guests who don’t like their wine too dry. Last spring I had a delicious glass of Kir Mure (blackberry) in Lyon (in the sunshine on the roof top terrace of a little museum since you ask). This summer we sampled the classic Kir at a friend’s house in France – served ice cold it was a beautiful start to a great meal and party. Make sure that you use a good quality white wine and of course a great Crème de Cassis (or try another fruit – I highly recommend the Mûre).

All apèritifs benefit from something tasty to nibble on and I must confess that this is my downfall. I love olives, crisps, nuts, thinly sliced saussicon or chorizo when I know I should be serving and eating crudités. I suppose I’ll have to convert to healthier options in the future but just wish they could be as tasty…