As a self confessed oenophile and melomane this time of year throws many a swerve ball – the wine that I both know and love is flying out of the doors here at Yapp HQ and the staples that I habitually imbibe during the year are getting thin on the ground or await re-stocking from France.

Shops do unusual things at this time of year, for some reason best known to the outlets, they feel a need to play, on rotation, Christmas tunes that no one really seems to audit – I used to live in the middle of Bath and a ‘bad’ busker outside with a one song repertoire would wear equally thin on the ground by 10.00am on a Saturday. I always thought variety was supposed to be the spice of life? I do know that Slade wrote their Christmas Song to be overly cheering (and noisy) in 1973 as an antidote to power cuts and the 3 day week – but we’re still playing it 38 years later and that just can’t be good for your musical health.

Some swerve balls however are great and unexpected, I saw my son in his Primary School nativity play last week dressed as a sheep singing ‘rock around the flock’ and there’s always some good news if you look for it – we’ve still got good stocks of the delicious Vacqueyras: Cuvée Spéciale 2003 and the Pogues wrote a Fairytale of New York with the late and great Kirsty MacColl – so that’ll be enough to get me through to the New Year – well that and a few bottles of Yapp Champagne and Bellet: Domaine de la Source Rouge 2006.

And if variety is the spice of life – I may well be taking home our Christmas variety pack (the infamous Degustation Dozen) to see me through to new year.. as anyone who has worked at a Wine Merchant in December will know what it’s like – so much so we’ve booked our Christmas meal and night out – for 21st January 2012!

PS Our shop here in Mere is very festive, has some great wines open to taste, is open 9-6pm this week (even on Christmas Eve) – and there’s no playing of “That’s what I call Christmas 42” or whatever it may be called this year!

Today is my last day in the office before I head off for the habitual family two weeks away up in the wilds of North Wales, so last night I started to scribble down my list of holiday essentials.

Times have certainly changed, my children are now a little older (as we all are) and whereas a few years ago I’d have been jotting down the likes of baby bottles, baby food and travel cot I found myself still noting that I’d need bottles but we’ve moved on from the 8oz (standard baby size) to the 75cl (standard adult size – wine).

My list started with children’s bikes at #1 but at #2 wine has made the cut this time round. I’ve learnt over my time at Yapp HQ a few things along the way and I’m happy with my plans for this summer.

I’ve asked the Shop Manager to pack my wine in 6 packs – this seems to fit better in the back of the car boot and fills the space well behind the 2 children’s bikes. It has the added bonus that I can keep 6 bottles separate for my own personal consumption and proffer other wines to folk that appear on our campsite over the next 2 weeks. I’ve got a pack of well priced and road tested crowd pleasers (a couple from Saint Pourçain – the white Cuvée Printanière 2009, the great decently dry and quaffable rosé La Chinière 2010 and the ever popular red, Côtes de Thongue: Tradition 2010).

The campsite is very small and most of the regulars there, like myself, went there as children and now repeat the process with our own children. So Jeremy and family, Oliver and co. – you may want to brush up on the above as that’s what you may well be drinking over the next few weeks.

The ‘hidden’ 6 pack (currently packed behind the beach BBQ and firelighters) is the ‘special’ pack – so Jeremy, if you see any of these being broached, you know we’ve worked our way through the others. Keep an eye out for the simply wonderful Sancerre Blanc: Les Perriers 2010, my favourite summer red (Chinon,  l’Arpenty 2009) or a bottle of the rather splendid Champagne: Dumangin Fils. Premium Blanc de Blancs.

Well, that’s the essentials covered – with a bottle opener at #3 on the list. Let’s hope the trek through the black mountains and brecons takes us safely to the wilds of the Llyn peninsula with these bottles ready to be opened – very possibly on arrival.

Last weekend, myself and three colleagues had the great honour of being invited to Champagne to visit Gilles Dumangin (our man in Champagne) for the dual celebration of his 40th Birthday and 10th Anniversary of taking over the reins of the family business from his father, Jacky, at J.Dumangin Fils. Although I have been lucky enough to visit Champagne on several occasions, this was my first visit to see Gilles and the village of Chigny-les-Roses.

Gilles and Jacky Dumangin

The festivities kicked off on Saturday at 1pm with an extensive tour of the winery, with Gilles ably alternating between French and English for his diverse audience. There were 30 or so of us in total, hailing from far and wide. Gilles’ champagnes have rightly garnered plaudits from around the world and this was reflected with his guests. As well as a fair few French and Brits, including journalist and respected authority on Champagne;  Tom Stevenson , there were also Dumangin enthusiasts from Belgium, Poland, Lithuania and South Africa.

Following the tour we all assembled in the press and tank room to start some serious work – a potentially daunting, and certainly impressive tasting of 20 Dumangin vintages from Gilles private cellars, ranging from his soon to be available 2004 back to 1982, a time when I still thought R. Whites lemonade was the be all and end all of all things sparkling.

The vintage tasting encompassing 20 years of Dumangin Champagne

Needless to say, this tasting (quite rightly) took some time and it was fascinating to see how the vintages varied and developed over time. My personal stand out vintages on the day were:- 2002, 1994, 1990 and 1982. Those followers of the ‘beautiful’ game will note that these dates coincide with the Coup du Monde, a strange coincidence? Certainly a useful aide memoire for recommending his vintages. It is a pity that the England team have never shown as well in these years!

It is amazing how time flies when one is immersed in Champagne and it was about 5.30pm when Gilles ushered us out into the still bright sunlight of day, in order that he and his team could convert the winery into a pop up dining room for the evening grand finale. We popped back to our B&B in the neighbouring village, where we found a bottle of Champagne waiting for us from our genial landlady. A lovely gesture, that was possibly treated a tad flippantly by us, having being spoilt all afternoon with glass after glass of the stuff. How quickly we are corrupted!

We returned  chez Dumangin around 7.30pm. As well as fellow tasters from the afternoon, we were now joined by another 20 or so guests, including Gilles’ delightful family. Ever the showman, our host produced a Nebuchadnezzar (15 litres or 20 standard bottles) of his 2002 vintage which he deftly opened and poured for his guests. Delicious hors d’oeuvres began to filter out from the field kitchen that had been assembled in the Dumangin office.  It took a good couple of hours or so for the assembled guests to finish the monster bottle and for the chef to open the cellar doors and beckon us in for dinner.

Gilles pours from the Nebuchadnezzar under the watchful eye of Dumangin Senior

The warehouse and bottling room where we had originally assembled in what seemed an age ago had been transformed with the deft use of strategic lighting and beautifully dressed tables, into a dining hall worthy of the food and champagne that was to follow.

Gilles had employed the services of Chef Thierry Landragin from the Restaurant de l’Abbaye in Hautvilliers for the evening, and his food was excellent. Each course was accompanied by a magnum of Champagne for each table, each one specially selected to match the food. My favourite course was the Truite saumonée sur lit d’avoine au Ratafia & Médaillon de Homard which was served with some Dumangin vintage 2000. Not a world cup year, but still a perfect match for this Lobster and risotto fish dish.

Although wistful when our taxi arrived around 2am, it had been a very long day, and I think that we were all ready for our beds as we departed. It had been an amazing evening and a weekend that I will treasure for a long time. Any pangs of sorrow about it all being over and being back at work in the UK, have been tempered as an email has arrived from Gilles forewarning us to keep a weekend free in 2021, when he plans to celebrate his 50th with what will then be a tasting 26-27 vintages plus a couple more Nebuchadnezzars……. now where’s my ten year diary……

Four Yapp Colleagues in Champagne

Christmas Delivery

With the forecast of inclement weather, we would strongly suggest that any orders requiring delivery before Christmas are placed today – Wednesday 15th December – at the latest.
If you are collecting from our shop in Mere, we will remain open until 6pm on Friday 24th December and then re-open at 9am on Wednesday 29th December inclusive.

Yapp Brothers Staff Christmas Wine Suggestions
A straw poll around the office generated lively discussion as to what colleagues will be drinking once we have closed our doors on Christmas Eve. We hope that our selections inspire your Festive food matching!

While there was unanimous agreement that any of the excellent J. Dumangin Fils Champagne would feature strongly over both Christmas Eve and Day, one or two suggested that Clairette de Die Tradition (at just 7% ABV) might be a sensible breakfast tipple for any chefs who are organizing the lunch!

Ex-pat Frenchman, Michael, is toying with either white Cassis Clos Sainte Magdeleine 2008 or Picpoul de Pinet Domaine Peyrificade 2009 with the traditional Gallic starter of oysters, while fellow Bristolian, Richard, is eyeing up Pouilly Fumé Les Loges 2009 en magnum to satisfy the extended family and do justice to a side of smoked salmon.

Few of us could improve on Hamish’s match of a magnum of Châteauneuf-du-Pape Père Caboche in the terrific 2007 vintage to mark the main day, partnered with a rib of beef. Our anglicized dutch colleague, Bianca, will be evoking memories of home with raclette accompanied by the crisp, red Savoie Mondeuse 2008. Vegetarian Michelle will be drinking the ripe, fruity Chinon l’Arpenty 2009 whose soft tannins will complement baked squash and spiced couscous.

Jason will be serving the garrigue-infused Pic Saint Loup ‘Arbouse’ 2008 to his thirsty neighbours on Boxing Day with Jane Grigson’s classic recipe for devilled and pulled turkey. Tom is looking forward to tucking in with Colombian-in-laws and thinks that Richeaume Tradition 2008 might have the versatility to tackle Bandeja Paisa – grilled steak, fried pork rind and chorizo on a bed of rice and red beans that is then topped with a fried egg and a side of sliced avocado and plantain – provided his cargo survives the journey to South America.

Joyeaux Noël and bon apétit,

Yapp Brothers

P.S. Stuck for last minute Christmas gift ideas? A wine gift voucher from Yapp Brothers could be ideal!

A recent reunion of an unofficial lunch club saw me dropping in on old friends at a new venue.  Michelin-starred chef, Alexis Gauthier and sommelier supreme, Roberto Della Pietra (ably assisted by Damian Sanchez) have opened Gauthier Soho in the attractive town house formerly frequented by Richard Corrigan.  The layout over four floors and steep stairs is a challenge that must keep staff fit and a few kilos lighter.

Gauthier Restaurant, Soho

We had unintentionally booked in the middle of London Restaurant Week and were taken aback by the jaw-dropping deal of £25 for four courses that they were running for this festival.  I can’t cook at home on this budget, so we immediately re-channelled the funds into a bottle of Gosset Champagne as a succession of meticulously-prepared plates appeared -   foie gras with apples, sultanas and a Calvados reduction; scallops and langoustine with girolles, welsh lamb with Autumn vegetables and pommes dauphines and a sensational truffle risotto.  All this was washed down with rare white Trévallon and La Landonne 2006 which showed surprising integration and finesse.  The restaurant even managed to squeeze several amuse bouche and a bizarre hand wipe that expanded with hot water out of their meagre budget.

Gauthier Restaurant, Soho

I’ll be back soon for sure and note that the £33, three course lunch menu includes a half-bottle of wine.  Exceptional!

Roma Numberplate

Like many other families we found our Easter holiday break involuntarily extended due to the closure of UK airspace at the end of last week. Having had a terrific week in Rome (more of which at a later date) we were enjoying dinner in a restaurant with friends on Thursday evening (which we believed to be our last night abroad) when we received the news that a volcano had erupted in Iceland. We naively laughed off the idea that this might in any way interfere with our travel plans.

The following morning as we were due to leave for Rome Ciampino airport we discovered that our flight had been cancelled. After some frantic searching on-line we eventually managed to re-book 4 flights for the following Monday. Making the most of this setback we headed south down the coast to Sperlonga where we enjoyed a terrific weekend on an empty beach before heading back into Rome for our second ‘final night’ of the holiday. It was only on the train back to Rome that we found out Monday’s flight had been cancelled, as had the following day’s and the days after that.

The situation was beginning to look serious so we earnestly began to explore other routes home – via Corsica by ferry? by train? via France by plane? Unsurprisingly we had little joy in getting any train or plane bookings but through a friend of a friend pulling strings we did manage to locate what was possibly the last hire car available in the Eternal City. After a breakneck trip across town on the back of our friend Maura’s motorbike I reached an Avis rental office and never has a battered old Lancia looked more attractive. For a pretty reasonable 180 euros I collected the keys and a SatNav and then had the baptism of fire that is driving in Rome. I picked Pippa and our boys (Alfred 11 and William up in San Lorenzo and we hit the autostrada. Fortunately Pippa had had the presence to pack a picnic so we were able to belt north unrelentingly before an enforced overnight pit-stop in San Remo. We weren’t allowed to leave Italy with the hire car and San Remo is the most northerly outpost of Avis in the country but the office had closed for the evening by the time we arrived.

After a fretful night in the appalling Hotel Eveline (too bad to go in to detail) we dropped the Lancia off at 8.30am sharp and got a taxi across the border to Nice airport. The only car available here was a Peugot 207 for which we were fleeced an outrageous 900 euros by Hertz (at least Dick Turpin wore a mask). We then headed west then north across the autoroutes of France with minimal stops at service stations. At 9pm that night we checked into the reassuringly old-fashioned Hôtel de la Bannière in Laon, just north of Champagne.

Queues at Calais

We were up and running (sans breakfast) at 6am to honour our 9am car rental return at Calais Sea Port. On arrival our hearts sank as the scenes before us looked like something from a disaster movie. Files of coaches were backed up onto the autoroute slip road, hire cars were abandoned indiscriminately and files of foot passengers were being herded into queues. Happily the evacuation operation was being well run and within 2 hours we were on board the ‘Pride of Dover’ heading back to Blighty at a not unreasonable 195 euros all in.

By lunchtime we had docked at Dover and after a ridiculous schlep on foot across town to Dover Priory station we caught a high speed train to London Saint Pancras. After that it was a relative doddle with a tube to Paddington, train to Westbury and taxi home to Frome, Somerset. I then had the unenviable task of heading out to Bristol airport to pick up my long abandoned car. Seldom has it felt better to eat at our own table and sleep in our own beds but it was a Herculean effort to drag ourselves out of bed to get to school and work on Thursday morning. There’s nothing like travel to make you appreciate getting home and when a neighbour asked the boys if they’d had a good holiday they replied ‘yes great thanks’.

We will send a bottle of Yapp Champagne to the reader with what we judge to be the most arduous return voyage as a result of the Icelandic volcanic eruption and disruption.

E-mail your story to: sales@yapp.co.uk by May 17^th.

Jason Yapp