I am delighted to report that the inaugural Natural Wine Fair which we co-hosted with 4 other innovative wine merchants (Les Caves de Pyrène, Aubert & Mascoli, Dynamic Vines and Wine Story, since you ask) in Borough Market from last Sunday until Tuesday was an unreserved, barn-storming success albeit one that was fairly exhausting for the organisers and exhibitors.

Natural Wine Fair - Isabelle Legeron addresses the Exhibitors

Carefully scheduled to attract visitors who might also be attending the leviathan London International Wine and Spirits Fair in Docklands, the NWF surpassed our expectations in terms of foot-fall and we have received heaps of positive feedback. In fairness luck played a fairly major part here as the venue, in the satellite Jubilee Market, is only partially covered and either heavy rain or broiling sun would have been problematic. As it was we had 3 days of hazy sunshine and soft breezes which made for a very pleasant environment in which to taste wine and fraternize with wine makers and merchants.
The first day of the fair was aimed at private customers who paid £18 each for the chance to taste up to 500 organic and bio-dynamic wines and meet the people who make them. There was some trepidation amongst the organisers as to whether we would attract enough visitors but some terrific press coverage beforehand helped boost advanced ticket sales and many more people turned up to pay on the day. With over 700 people attending on the Sunday the fair had got off to a superb start although we were under constant pressure to ensure there were ample clean glasses throughout the day.

Jancis Robinson interviews Ron Laughton of Jasper Hill

There was a good turnout from on-trade buyers and journalists over the following 2 days and we were delighted when Jancis Robinson tipped up on Monday afternoon and decided to interview and film the only New World wine maker present, Ron Laughton, of Jasper Hill vineyards in Heathcote, South Australia. Ron featured quite prominently at the fair because he was also the guest speaker at a talk on the New World Perspective on Natural Wine where he was introduced by NWF organiser and Master of Wine Isabelle Legeron. Ron gave his forthright opinions on everything from compost to irrigation observing that ‘if you need to irrigate you’re in the wrong place’.

Team Yapp taste Jasper Hill wines

Jancis also gave the thumbs up to Pascal Labasse’s  Jurançon Sec: Domaine Bellegarde 2010 and Fredrik Filliatreau’s red Samur: Château Fouquet 2010 both of which she has short-listed as a strong contenders to feature at a gala dinner at her alma mater, St Anne’s college Oxford, later in the year.
Marc Imbert from Domaine Torraccia in Corsica attracted a steady stream of visitors eager to taste his dry white and red blends (made from Nielluccio and Sciacarello) as did two celebrated Provencal wine makers Sylvain Hoesch, from Domaine Richeaume, and Laurent Bunan from Mas de la Rouvière in Bandol. Xavière Brugière’s Pic Saint Loup L’Arbouse drew praise from the Tate Gallery’s wine expert Hamish Anderson and if that weren’t enough Gérard Basset (Master of Wine and World Champion Sommelier) singled out his white ‘Les Mûriers’ as showing particularly well. Bruno Ribière’s ‘rich and nutty’ white Grenache was another wine that Jancis rated highly and she averred that it could go well with cheese – a theory I intend to test imminently.
The Natural Wine Fair certainly scotched the myth that low-interventionist wines are all cloudy, feral and funky and made by blokes with bushy beards – there were a handful of those on show of cousre but they were a tiny minority illustrating that Natural Wine movement is a very broad church and its popularity is increasing.
The Natural Wine Fair had a definite buzz and the fresh feel of something innovative backed by bags of enthusiasm and goodwill and bit of good luck to boot. I for one can’t wait for the next one but I must remember to order more glasses!

An aperitif of refreshing rosé Bandol: Mas de la Rouvière 2007 was accompanied by a delicious amuse bouche of pissaladière. The dry, coral-pink, berry-scented wine was the perfect foil for the warm, flaky, melt-in-your-mouth pastry topped with anchovies, olives and caramelised onions. On my table we fought over the crumbs.

Next up was an equally appetising bouillabaisse served with golden, garlicky croutons and a pleasingly authentic rouille. This was partnered with the ideal wine – a 2007 Cassis blanc from Clos Sainte Magdeleine. The herb-tinged, slightly oily wine moved into a different dimension with the satisfyingly gritty bisque that accompanied mussels, prawns and firm white fish.

Our main course was a (very) generous rack of herb-crusted lamb, served rare with ratatouille. The accompanying red wine was a belter – an organic Côtes de Provence ‘Cuvée Tradition’ 2007 from Domaine Richeaume. This blend of Bordelais (Cabernet Sauvignon) and Rhône (Syrah) varietals is packed with sweet cassis fruit with savoury, minty undertones. It was wonderful with the lamb and equally successful with another Provençal delicacy – a mature Banon goat’s cheese that one seldom sees on these shores.

By this stage nobody actually required further sustenance, but an apricot tart of which Elisabeth David would have been proud (see Yapp ’09 page 10) was very happy in the company of a luscious, straw-coloured Muscat de Beaumes de Venise 2006 from Domaine de Durban that was served ice-cold, in stylish little Parisian glasses. We then had coffee and sensible people (who didn’t abuse their rum rations) caught buses and trains home.

If you’ve yet to engage the Ambassador in diplomatic relations it’s high time you paid a visit. We’ll certainly be heading back soon.