By Simon Hoggart - Spectator, June 2013. (Posted June 2013)
I love the Chenin grape — sometimes. It can be weak and flabby, though it’s now grown with great success in South Africa, and of course is at its finest in Vouvray. This 2011 Vouvray sec from the Domaine Aubert has smashing apple and pear flavours, and enough acidity to go with rich, even fatty foods, such as pork rillettes — though as Tom and Jason warn, both are dangerously moreish. (I cannot think of a nicer meal than rillettes on a fresh baguette, with crispy, salty frites, all washed down with this wine.) At £11.95, a huge treat.