Our Wines In The Press

Spectator Wine Club, March 2015

By Jonathan Ray - Spectator Wine Club, March 2015. (Posted March 2015)

The 2013 Saumur Champigny, Domaine Filliatreau is another deeply quaffable red from the Filliatreau family, who were largely responsible for galvanising the appellation in the 1970s. Out went haphazard harvesting and leaky barrels and in came state of the art practices and technology and, lo and behold, Saumur Champigny became the staple partner of steak frites in the bistros and brasseries of Paris and the talk of the town. Refreshing and uncomplicated, it’s designed to be drunk young and served cool and cries out to be uncorked during that lamentably rare event these days, the long lunch.

Spectator Wine Club, March 2015

By Jonathan Ray - Spectator Wine Club, March 2015. (Posted March 2015)

The 2014 ‘La Ficelle’ de Saint-Pourcain, Union des Vignerons is as delightful and enticing as its label is ghastly and offputting. Ignore it and just wallow in the sheer drinkability of this equal part Gamay/Pinot Noir blend. Called La Ficelle after the knotted string that waiters would dip in the bottle to see how much you had drunk, it’s the archetypal vin de soif, or thirst-quencher. It’s light, fresh and fruity and ideal for carefree rather than contemplative drinking. I’d suggest serving it lightly chilled.

Spectator Wine Club, March 2015

By Jonathan Ray - Spectator Wine Club, March 2015. (Posted March 2015)

A pure, fruit-driven, unblended Cabernet Franc. The Yapps have shipped every vintage of this wine for the past 40 years and I can quite see why. It’s crammed with luscious wild berry fruit backed by fine-grained, subtle tannins. It might be a tad early to be thinking of picnics, but all I could think of when tasting this was straw hats, gingham table cloths, wicker baskets full of pork pies and York ham and the sun beating down on a gurgling English brook.

Chinon: l'Arpenty 2013Chinon: l'Arpenty 2013
Bottle£12.50
Case£150.00
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Spectator Wine Club, March 2015

By Jonathan Ray - Spectator Wine Club, March 2015. (Posted March 2015)

The Vouvray Mousseux Brut Réserve, Domaine Aubert is charm itself, a cheery yet sophisticated méthode traditionelle sparkler from a longstanding family estate, where workers still ‘riddle’ the bottles by hand. Made from 100 per cent Chenin Blanc it has tasty toasty brioche notes, an underlying creaminess and a vibrant froth and fizz. It’s dry but fruity, a real crowd pleaser, and thunderingly good value.

Vouvray Mousseux BrutVouvray Mousseux Brut
Bottle£13.50
Case£162.00
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Spectator Wine Club, March 2015

By Jonathan Ray - Spectator Wine Club, March 2015. (Posted March 2015)

I remember that the 2013 Menetou-Salon, Domaine Jean Teiller was napped as a favourite by my august predecessor Simon Hoggart. He loved the stuff. I think he was rather taken by the winemaker Patricia Teiller, too. She and her husband trained in Burgundy but also did a vintage in New Zealand and it shows. Old World meets the New here with buckets of ripe, zesty, whistle-clean fruit and a touch of tropical, exotic mango and papaya.

Spectator Wine Club, March 2015

By Jonathan Ray - Spectator Wine Club, March 2015. (Posted March 2015)

There’s nothing duller than a dull Muscadet, oh, except maybe a dull Soave, but the 2013 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie, Domaine de la Mortaine is anything but, being full of vim and vigour. We offered the previous vintage last summer and I make absolutely no apology for offering this one here too, such a success was it. In fact, as I said last time, it’s about as perfect a Muscadet as you will find. It’s crisp, clean and lemony and thanks to a winter on its lees, has plenty of lift and zip and what Jason refers to as ozone freshness. The Quentin Blake label is rather uplifting too.

February 2015 Report

By The Wine Gang - www.thewinegang.com, February 2015. (Posted February 2015)

Insanely priced, this is a beautiful Riesling that has just entered its peak drinking phase, which means its plush fruit, candied peel and honey flavours strike a delicious contrast to its classically mineral fresh and zippy Riesling character. 92/100.

Alsace: Riesling 2004Alsace: Riesling 2004
Bottle£12.95
Case£155.40
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February 2015 Report

By The Wine Gang - www.thewinegang.com, February 2015. (Posted February 2015)

A springtime, bouncy fresh little white made mostly with Marsanne together with a drop of Viognier and Roussanne. That freshness you get from freshly-picked dew-soaked apples is what comes to mind mostly, but a soft touch of peaches and cream follows. Incredibly elegant and classy. 91/100.

Brézème: Domaine Lombard Blanc 2013Brézème: Domaine Lombard Blanc 2013
Bottle£17.95
Case£215.40
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February 2015 Report

By The Wine Gang - www.thewinegang.com, February 2015. (Posted February 2015)

Deliciously juicy and vibrant from the very beginning, its tropical fruit salad character is pitched perfectly because even though it’s incredibly fruity, it isn’t overblown in the slightest. 89/100.

February 2015 Report

By The Wine Gang - www.thewinegang.com, February 2015. (Posted February 2015)

This Pouilly-Fumé pulls out all the Sauvignon stops. The generous freshness of greengage and Granny Smith fruit is only accentuated by an extremely moreish lick of saltiness, giving it gravitas and a certain weight to the mid-palate. 88/100.

Pouilly-Fumé: Les Loges 2013Pouilly-Fumé: Les Loges 2013
Bottle£15.25
Case£183.00
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