After a string of frost and hail depleted crops dating back to 2014, the wine-makers of Chablis hailed a 'comeback' vintage in 2018 that saw generous volumes of high quality fruit harvested in fine conditions. Seasoned vignerons hadn't seen their cellars so full in 20 years so were understandably upbeat. The resultant wines are richer and more forward than leaner terroir orientated vintages, such as 2017 and 2014, but qualitatively very good and relatively abundant.
Based in the heart of the old town, father and son Christophe and Dylan Camu represent the 6th and 7th generations of their family to make Chablis across all four tiers of classification. Half their vine-holdings are of Villages Chablis which yields a wine that is bien classique. With a straw-coloured robe, alluring green apple aromas and a zesty orchard fruit palate offset by nervy mineral notes, it drinks beautifully from release and makes a fine partner for dressed crab or native oysters.
Ascending the hierarchy, the Camu's 'Premier Cru' bottling from the 'Beauroy' vineyard to the north-west of the town is a richer, more complex and age-worthy wine. With a wealth of stone fruit scents and flavours and textbook 'wet pebble' characteristics underscored by a fine acidity, it can readily support 3-5 years bottle age.
The jewel in the crown chez Camu is their venerable 'Grand Cru' bottling from 'Les Clos'. Matured in oak barrels for a minimum of 12 months it has a 'struck match' and white flower bouquet, greengage and white-currant nuances and wonderful texture and tension. It will cellar well for 10-15 years and makes a fine partner for traditional Burgundian dishes such as escargots en pérsillade or poulet de Bresse à la crème.