Chablis Wine
Chablis extends to an impressive 5,771 hectares of vineyard in the Yonne département between Beaune and Paris, encompassing various tiers of classification devoted solely to the Chardonnay grape. It is a benchmark of the concept of terroir, where an appropriate grape is cultivated in an ideal location. That may change with the impact of climate change but at the moment it remains exemplary and, as prices elsewhere in Burgundy have risen ineluctably, there is some great value to be found.
Camu père et fils are based in the eponymous town of Chablis around which they cultivate 13 hectares of vines classed variously as Chablis, Premier Cru (Chablis) and Grand Cru. Here, Christophe and Dylan produce traditionally-vinified wines with a strong expression of their location and lots of varietal character. Their classic Chablis wine is from pure unoaked Chardonnay grapes grown on free-draining Kimmeridgian clay-limestone soils and has a golden-green colour, ripe apple aromas and nervy, citrus-edged palate. It makes a versatile aperitif or partner to shellfish. In the Premier Cru 'climat' of 'Beauroy', to the north-west of the town, the Camus produce a brilliant bottling that has a similar steely-dry character to their principal wine but additional tension, length and greater longevity. It pairs well with river fish or poultry and can age well for 3 to 5 years. The jewel in the crown here is the Chablis Grand Cru wine from 'Les Clos' which has an intense 'struck match' bouquet and a marvelous concentration of yellow stone fruit underscored by great minerality. It merits decanting and can be cellared for a decade or longer.
