We have recounted previously the tale of Robin Yapp's providential discovery of Christian Roche's magnificent Monbazillac when he was served it on three successive occasions on a rare non-buying trip toFrance in the early 1990s. He finally concluded that higher forces were at work and so sought Christian out at his Domaine de l'Ancienne Cure cellars by the Route Nationale 21, 8 kilometres due south of Bergerac. Well, the story may be getting rather hackneyed but Christian's Monbazillac is as fresh as ever. It is made from low-yields of late-harvested, botrytised, Semillon (90%) and Muscadelle (10%) and has a wonderful golden robe, barley sugar bouquet and complex dried fruit palate offset by a fine acidity. Traditionally it is served chilled before a main meal, often as an accompaniment to foie gras, but it makes an equally harmonious partner for fruit-based desserts or cheese, particularly blue cheese.