The Chéreaus have been vignerons for 2 centuries and the Domaine is now ably run by Sébastian. Yapp Brothers first shipped the 1973 vintage and have listed their unfailingly pleasurable wine every year since. The recipe for consistency seems to be to make as few changes as possible, a lack of innovation which we applaud. Their single Muscadet bottling is both ‘De Sévre et Maine’ (from the heartland of the Nantais where these two rivers converge) and ‘Sur Lie’ (rested on its fine lees over winter to impart extra flavour). We are delighted that Sébastien is now bottling his own Gros Plant, a crisp, mineral-edged offering that serves as a bracing pick-me-up or seafood support act.