I am always in favour of restaurants doing one thing very well, rather than carrying too many dishes all of which are mediocre. The ‘Restaurant du Port’ in the Swiss town of Rolle (nothing to do with the grape variety found in white Bellet) exemplifies such mastery. Maybe there are a couple of other dishes on the menu, but everyone comes to this pretty restaurant (situated 50 yards from Lake Geneva) for the speciality ‘filets de perches meunière’. The Lake delivers the perch, which are pan-fried in butter and garlic and served with excellent, thin fries. Thankfully we were forewarned by our hosts that you receive two generous helpings, the second of which is kept warm and then served once you have cleaned your plate first time around.

Sitting on the sun-drenched terrace and washed down with a perfectly decent Pinot Noir rosé from the local Vaud canton, this was a wonderful experience of simple cooking at its best.