RHÔNE REPORT: 2022 VINTAGE
& EN PRIMEUR OFFER
Our 2022 en primeur offer closed on 14th January 2024. If you have any questions about the campaign, your order, or if you wish to be advised of the 2022 en primeur offer next Autumn, please email sales@yapp.co.uk.
Vintage Overview
In 2022, after the hiatus of a cool 2021 vintage, (new) normal service of warm summers resumed in the Rhône valley. In fact, the northern Rhône experienced its hottest and driest year on record last year. For a number of reasons the weather conditions did not lead to universally powerful wines with high alcohol levels. In some places, the heat and drought caused the vines to stop ripening (aka 'hydric stress') or as Max Graillot commented 'the vines went on strike'. Further, it's tricky to generalise about climatic conditions, even within an appellation. Condrieu, for example, is closer to Meursault than it is to Châteauneuf-du-Pape and hail or frost can hit one vineyard while sparing others, as witnessed on 15th August 2022 when a violent hail-storm ripped through the southern sector of Châteauneuf' (specifically the 'Crau' plateau), yet the majority went untouched. As Alistair Cooper MW (writing for jancisrobinson.com) comments on Rhône 2022:
"It is a vintage where many factors including vine age, yields, aspect and site, to name a few, all played important roles in resulting quality."
It is reasonable to say, however, that the further south one headed from Lyon to the Mediterranean the less rain fell. Between January and August 2022, Cornas and Crozes-Herimtage received around 250mm of rain (one-third of a typical year), at Grange des Pères in the Languedoc and Domaine de Trévallon in Provence it was below 100mm. Harvests started in mid to late August (a fortnight earlier than in 2021) and the results were impressive – as you can read in the individual entries.
"Overall, I would call 2022 a good vintage in the northern Rhône. There are certainly some stunning wines to be found. The reality is that the region has been blessed with so many wonderful vintages over the past 20 years that a good vintage currently is still the equivalent of an outstanding vintage when judged against those from the 1980s and 1990s."
Alistair Cooper MW on the Northern Rhône 2022
"I'll focus on these wines from bottle next year, but at this stage, 2022 looks to check in behind the greats of 2019, 2016, 2010, and 2007, but it's clearly an outstanding vintage."
Jeb Dunnuck on Southern Rhône 2022
Quite a few of our growers lost volume due to less 'juice', down 20% on an average yield in some cases. Despite these reductions and increasing production and logistics costs of all shapes and sizes, prices of Rhône wines en primeur remain very reasonable. Setting aside any investment angle, the en primeur contract between customer and wine producer (via the merchant) should result in the former buying the wine around 25% cheaper than vintages that are physically available and the latter receiving a healthy cashflow boost. This equation remains valid in the Rhône, elsewhere... not so much!
Where possible, the wines are annotated with independent testimonials and/or with team Yapp tasting notes and scores, as follows:
Tom Ashworth, Yapp Brothers (TA), Jason Yapp, Yapp Brothers (JY), Simon Stuart, Yapp Brothers (SS).
Alistair Cooper MW, JancisRobinson.com (AC), Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com (JD), John Livingstone-Learmonth, drinkrhone.com (JLL), Matt Walls, decanter.com (MW).
Jason & Tom
Northern Rhône
"The early signs are of a very good 2022 vintage in the North, degrees not high, unlike 2019, for example. Cornas is certainly very successful pretty much across the board, the wines immediately likeable, spontaneous. I have tasted maybe 30 wines there so far leading into the early summer of 2023. The wines are well filled, balanced, and show good length, even a little flair." (JLL).
CÔTE-RÔTIE
Patrick Jasmin
Fourth-generation winemaker, Patrick Jasmin, has the advantage of owning 12 different parcels of vines running across 8 lieu-dits on the Côte Brune and Blonde escarpments, which gives him an enviably broad palette of fruit to work with.
His vines are planted in a field blend of 95% Syrah and 5% Viognier that are hand-harvested and undergo a very traditional fermentation and 3-week cuvaison in cement vats (since 1996 the grapes have been de-stemmed which has improved colour). The parcels are vinified separately prior to blending at the end of December and then aged for up to 2 years in 228-litre and 590-litre oak barrels (with up to 25% being new, originating from France, Russia and the USA). There is no fining and only a light filtration. Approximately 2,000 cases are produced in a typical vintage.
The name 'La Giroflarie' appeared on the label in 2016, to distinguish this principal cuvée from a special cuvée called 'Olea' that Patrick first made in 2015. 'La Giroflarie' is an historic name for the Côte Baudin Côte-Rôtie 'Giroflarie' 2022 @ £384 per case (of 12 bottles) IB "2022 saw a hot and dry growing season across the Blonde and Brune escarpments, but fortunately Patrick has 12 different parcels of vines, so has an enviable array of fruit from which to make his final assemblage. Yields of 37 hl/ha were double the frost-impacted 2021 crop and picking began early, on 26th August. The 2022 vintage (from barrel) already has a dark purple robe, quite powerful dark cherry and violet scents and a concentrated black fruit palate, with peppery undertones a fresh acidity and structured tannins that will support 10-20 years bottle age. Already exuding elegance as well as power, this is a warm vintage classic with good acidity that will yield rewarding drinking in the medium and long term." 17.5/20 (JY). "...(a good example from several casks) full red colour; blackberry, stewed fruits, raspberry feature in a rather thick bouquet, though there is also a discreet and interesting perfume, violet. The palate is also well filled, has a firm generosity, with compact richness and gras on the agenda, comes with iron threads on the attack, has direction, is pretty sturdy inside, close-knit, iron again on the aftertaste. It connects to its terroir, is a genuine small domaine Rôtie with good length and a hand made feel. 37 hl/ha." ****(*) (JLL). Domaine Champet Côte-Rôtie 2022 @ £180 per case (of 6 bottles) IB Domaine Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage 2022 @ £264 per case (of 12 bottles) IB Domaine Clape This traditional estate has recently expanded its cellars across the main road in Cornas (which splits the village in two) to create some much needed storage space and a home to some impressive new fermentation tanks. Vin des Amis 2022 @ £132 per case (of 6 bottles) IB "A real cassis note on the nose along with spice and violets. A juicy and inky palate with a floral character and firm and grippy tannins. Clean, fresh and structured. Drink 2025 – 2030." 16.5/20 (AC). Côtes du Rhône 2022 @ £165 per case (of 6 bottles) IB "A wild nose with some meatiness and spice. Lots of freshness here, too. The tannins are marked yet fine. This is rich and powerful but certainly not over the top – youthful, juicy and lively. Drink 2026-2032." 16.5/20 (AC). Cornas 2022 @ £480 per case (of 6 bottles) IB "A tasting of various barrel samples suggests that the 2022 vintage here will be very good, if not necessarily the most powerful year. The fruit is quite dark in character and there's a good sense of purity if not the same freshness as 2021 or 2020, or the grandeur of 2019. Nonetheless, an excellent wine and a fairly typical expression of Clape Cornas. Tannins are ripe and elegant." 96/100 (MW). Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc 2021 Hermitage Rouge 2021 Saint-Joseph Rouge 2021 "Although the vintage is far from homogenous, in general the wines are ripe and expressive, with Provençal, up-front profiles. Looking at the style of the wines, it's difficult to find a similar older vintage, but there are some similarities to 2020 and 2011, if not a more linear, mid-weight version of 2009." Le Vieux Donjon The estate, now very capably managed by brother and sister François and Claire, comprises 18 hectares of vines (one-third of which are over 100 years old) across six different lieux-dits. They make just one white wine and one red. The red is picked from 17 hectares of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault that are partially de-stemmed, vinified together in concrete and partly aged in concrete (20%) and partly in old oak foudres (80%). "What joy! Just one wine, no special nonsense Cuvées." (JLL). Cháteauneuf-du-Pape 2022 @ £360 per case (of 12 bottles) IB "As to the red from this great estate, the 2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape checks in as a classic blend of 75% Grenache and the rest Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Cinsault that raised in concrete and foudre. It shows the perfumed, ripe, yet also elegant style of the vintage and has beautiful red and black fruit, some classic Provençal, spicy, garrigue nuances, medium to full body, a great mid-palate, and ripe tannins. It's going to a forward, approachable Vieux Donjon that will also evolve for 10-15 years if well stored." 93-95+ (JD). "Enjoyably fresh and fluid style, good acidity, with lip-smacking raspberry and strawberry fruit. Good feeling of lift and drinkability considering the extreme vintage conditions. Elegant, fine tannins. Fermented in concrete vats, then aged in concrete and old foudres." 95/100 (MW). Domaine du Père Caboche Châteauneuf-du-Pape 'Père Caboche' 2022 @ £192 per case (of 12 bottles) IB "I always love this cuvée, and the 2022 Châteauneuf Du Pape is an exceedingly elegant, Burgundian, complex beauty offering the ripe, perfumed aromatics of the vintage while staying fresh, focused, and lively on the palate. It has a floral, pretty, balanced style that will deliver ample pleasure in its youth yet will evolve for 10-12+ years if well stored." 92-94 (JD). Domaine de Trévallon Visionary founder Eloi Dürrbach's sudden death in November 2021 was very sad news that rocked the world of wine, but his daughter Ostiane who had worked alongside her father for a decade is a steady hand who has found her own voice. Domaine de Trévallon Rouge 2022 @ £324 per case (of 6 bottles) IB Mas de Daumas Gassac Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge 2022 @ £195 per case (of 6 bottles) IB Hérault: Domaine de la Grange des Pères & Domaine de Montcalmès STORAGE & DELIVERY OPTIONS WHEN THE WINE ARRIVES
Côte Rôtie 'Giroflarie' 2022 @ £390 per case (of 6 magnums) IB
Romain and Max Champet run this family estate of 4.5 hectares of vines that lie in a single block in the 'Viallière' lieu-dit, just to the north of Ampuis. Situated exclusively on the clay-based Côte Brune this is a traditional estate producing single-vineyard wine of great typicality.
"The Champet brothers are really hitting their stride nowadays and had already undertaken their first bottling of the promising 2022 vintage when we visited them in mid-October. With a deep carpaccio colour, scents of hedgerow berries with hints of tapenade and a luscious, quite forward-drinking, full-fruited palate with notes of plumb and damson over fine-grained tannins. This Old School wine continues to represent excellent value for Northern Rhône Syrah and will drink well on its youthful fruit (if decanted) and cellar well for (at least) a decade. Volumes reduced by around 20% due to the dry year." 17/20 (JY).
CROZES-HERMITAGE
Established in 1985, the Graillots' Crozes-Hermitage vineyards now comprise 17 hectares of Syrah vines and 3 of Marsanne and Roussanne, which surround their cellars at Les Chênes Verts (a former pig farm) on the Chassis plateau between Tain l'Hermitage and Pont l'Isère. The estate has been ably run by Alain's sons, Max and Antoine, for the past couple of decades and their red Crozes' is regarded as the archetype of the AOC. Grapes are vinified with their stems for three weeks in stainless steel vats, preceded by a cold maceration without sulphur. The wine is then racked off its lees with up to 50% being aged in small young Burgundy casks before being blended and bottled after 18 months (the sons are bottling a little later than Alain did).
Crozes-Hermitage 2022 @ £276 per case (of 6 magnums) IB
"In his 15th vintage at the helm of the illustrious family domaine, Maxime Graillot has produced a sleek, poised and age-worthy Crozes-Hermitage. The heat and lack of rain – just 200mm fell between January and October 2022, less than a third of an 'average' years rainfall - were responsible for a 10% reduction in Syrah yields and led to early picking date of 23rd of August. Despite these extreme conditions, the domaine's trademark lifted orange peel, violet and black cherry aromatics are abundant and there is a freshness and a supple fruit character to balance out the inevitable concentration and richness. This will show well from release and age gracefully for at least 15 to 20 years." 17.5/20 (SS).
CORNAS
The Clape family farms 5.38 hectares of vines at Cornas, with further parcels classed as Côtes du Rhône and Saint-Péray. Although there have been Clapes at Cornas for at least 250 years, Auguste (1925-2018) was a first generation vigneron, having acquired his vines through marriage to his wife Henriette. His first vintage was in 1949 and he was the first independent vigneron in Cornas to begin domaine-bottling his own wines in the early 1950s. Auguste was joined by his (then 40 year-old) son Pierre in 1989 and grandson Olivier in 2002.
"Another approachable and delicious Vin des Amis Syrah. Unmistakably Clape, with intense blackcurrant, violets and game on the nose followed by a palate in which grippy tannins are balanced by an abundance of pleasurable youthful fruit. In a common theme across Pierre and Olivier's 2022s, a skilful balance between power and finesse has been achieved despite the intense heat of the vintage. Yield 30hl/ha, roughly double 2021." 16/20 (SS).
"Slightly more closed and serious than the Vin des Amis, the 2022 Côtes-du-Rhône features clove-scented, spicy aromatics which precede sweet fruit and 'big' tannic structure on the palate. Compared to previous vintages, this should have a long future whilst also providing plenty of immediate joy through the abundance of upfront juice." 16.5/20 (SS).
"Heat stress reduced yields by a brutal 40% across the domaine in 2022 and, for just the second time in 25 years (the other being 2017), Pierre and Olivier have decided against bottling a 'Renaissance' cuvée. Instead, they will use the fruit from the young vines in their holdings in the Reynard 'lieu dit' to bolster the shortfall and stylistically complement the power and density achieved in their older vineyards. The 'usual' components here are hugely impressive and should fit together beautifully; the heightened aromatics of Sabarottes, the vigour and drive of Petit Côte and La Côte, plus the intense power and structure of the 85 to 100-year-old vines in Reynard are all present and correct. Weaving through every parcel are the Clape's trademark flavours of graphite, liquorish, black cherry, well-hung game, and cloves. This should be a superb Cornas, needing at least 10 years to unfurl its full potential, but offering serious pleasure from 2025 onwards." 18/20 (SS).
HERMITAGE & SAINT-JOSEPH
The Chave wines' long élévage means that they are released later than the majority of their peers. Having said that, Jean-Louis had just bottled the red Hermitage 2021 when we visited him in October 2023 'in order to preserve the freshness and balance of the vintage'. We will release the 2021 Hermitage and Saint-Joseph from Domaine Jean-Louis Chave in early 2024 on an allocation basis. Again, if you are interested in the wines, please contact us.
"Tasted from multiple tanks and barrels, the 2021 Hermitage Blanc shows the fresher, elegant style of the vintage while still being nicely concentrated and rich. It has plenty of classic Chave rich, buttered stone fruits, medium to full body, a good spine of acidity, and a great finish. It will unquestionably be a beautiful Hermitage Blanc." 94-96/100 (JD).
18/20 (AC).
***** (JLL).
"As is usually the case, I was able to taste the new vintage in its individual components, which is an incredible lesson in the terroir of Hermitage, and I continue to believe this is one of the most educational tastings I do every year. All of the samples for the 2021 Hermitage rated between 93 and 95, and this should be a classic, more medium-bodied, elegant, yet still substantial Hermitage. All of the single parcels show classic, textbook characteristics and possess ripe tannins and outstanding purity of fruit. I suspect this wine will be in the mold of the 2014, possibly the 2004. It should benefit from just short-term cellaring and have two decades of longevity." 93-95 (JD).
18/20 (AC).
****(*) (JLL).
"Leading off the reds, the 2021 Saint Joseph should be solid, and I was able to taste multiple different lots that comprise this cuvée. All of the wines have good ripeness, quality tannins, and the more medium-bodied, elegant, yet nicely balanced style of the vintage." 90-92/100 (JD).
18/20 (AC).
**** (JLL).
Southern Rhône
Jeb Dunnuck on Southern Rhône 2022
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE
"As I've written many times, Le Vieux Donjon is a reference point estate for classically made Châteauneuf-du-Pape. In addition to their red, they make a terrific Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc." (JD).
Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2022 @ £372 per case (of 6 magnums) IB
"A warm, dry year resulted in a late August start to the harvest, some two weeks earlier than in 2021. Yields were reduced by around 20% for both white and red, but at least the domaine was unaffected by the hailstorm that ravaged Le Crau plateau on 15thAugust. As usual we tasted an approximate tank sample (the final blending will take place in December 2023) and what is clear is that this will be a powerful wine with good structure and ample tannins that will require a year or two in bottle before approaching. Claire Michel compared it to both 2016 and 2019 which puts it in elevated company – these are two legendary 'Donjon' vintages that should be in everyone's cellar." 18/20 (TA).
Members of the Boisson family had been both winemakers and blacksmiths for generations - the family nickname of Caboche derives from the old Provençal word for 'horseshoe nails'. These days, the 17-hectare estate that incorporates all the principal soils of the appellation (pudding stones, sand, limestone and clay) is ably run by Emily Boisson, with her father Jean-Pierre (former long-serving mayor of Châteauneuf-du-Pape) keeping a watchful eye over proceedings.
"Grapes from four different sites are de-stemmed, vinified in stainless steel and then matured in concrete and oak tonneau. With a ripe bouquet of red and black fruit, a garnet robe and concentrated hedgerow berry palate with notes of spice and bay leaf, this joyful wine always shows well from the off but (in superior years such as this) has sufficient weight to support a decade of bottle age. Very easy to enjoy." 16.5/20 (TA).
PROVENCE & LANGUEDOC
Bottled as a simple 'Indication Géographique Protégée', this iconic Syrah/Cabernet Sauvignon blend technically lies in Provence, but has strong ties to the Rhône in terms of geography, wine-making and esprit. Low yields (25-30 hl/ha) and no chemical intervention give thick-skinned grapes that need 2 to 3 weeks cuvaison. The parcels of grapes are allowed a warm fermentation (using only indigenous yeasts) in small oak foudres where they rest for 18 months before an unfiltered, unfined assemblage and eventual bottling 25 months after the harvest.
"After much-needed rainfall in 2021, the 2022 growing season was hot and dry in Les Alpilles. Temperatures of 32 degrees Celsius were recorded as early as the 8th May and from mid-June until the end of harvest the thermometer rarely dipped below 35 degrees during the day. Despite the climate, the crop that was harvested was not significantly depleted and Ostiane puts this down to the average age of the vines (90% of which are 40-50 years old), the limestone soils, the organic status of the vineyard and the original massal vine selection of her father. The Syrah has good depth and concentration, Ostiane expected it to be 'a bit like 2003, but its much more supple'. The Cabernet Sauvignon – 'the backbone of Trévallon' - exhibited black berry and dark cherry scents and a full-bodied, persistent palate of Autumn fruit offset by a fresh acidity and elegant tannins. As usual, this vintage will require 10+ years' bottle-age before drinking." 17.5/20 (JY).
'A Lafite in the Languedoc' - Gault & Millau.
In 1970, with little wine knowledge but boundless enthusiasm, Aimé and Véronique Guibert bought an old farmhouse and mill on the Gassac river in the foothills of the Cévennes near Aniane and started investigating the surrounding countryside. In 1972 they began planting Cabernet Sauvignon vines and the first vintage of red Mas de Daumas Gassac was produced in 1978. Today the estate extends to 50 hectares of vines set amongst 5,000 hectares of woodland and Aimé and Véronique's four sons, Samuel, Roman, Gaël and Basile now oversee the running of the estate. Today the red Mas de Daumas Gassac is bottled as an I.G.P. Saint-Guilhem-le-désert cite d’Aniane produced from a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon along with lesser volumes of 23 other grape varieties. It undergoes a long fermentation and is macerated for at least 20 days before being matured in vat and barrels (of 1-7 years of age) for 12-15 months before blending and bottling.
"A dry summer was relieved by a precious 100m of rain that fell in mid-August, resulting in a later than expected harvest of the red varieties, 5th to 26th September. Fermentations (alcoholic and malolactic) were quick and the red varieties were assembled in November 2022 prior to barrel ageing (15% new oak). The finished wine combines power and elegance, alongside distinct freshness for such a warm year. This has all the markings of a classic 'Gassac'." 17.5/20 (TA).
These neighbours of Mas de Daumas Gassac are not released en primeur. We will release the 2021 vintage of Grange des Pères and Montcalmès in April 2024 so, if you are interested in these wines, please let us know.
HOW EN PRIMEUR WORKS
Rhône 2022 wines en primeur
En primeur wines are offered for purchase now, with delivery in 2024-25.
These Rhône 2022 en primeur wines are offered per case (of either 6 or 12) and 'in bond' ('IB'), exclusive of duty and VAT.
To buy these wines you need to either complete the request form below or contact bianca@yapp.co.uk / telephone 01747 863142.
Payment should be made by debit or credit card at the time of order. We will confirm your order with an invoice and discuss your delivery and storage options.
The en primeur offer closes on Sunday 14th January 2024, but we would advise you to contact us now to secure your preferences.
Terms & Conditions for en primeur purchases
1. A contract will come into existence between Yapp Brothers Ltd ('Yapp') and the Buyer when an invoice is raised and payment is taken by Yapp. Payment will be due immediately when an invoice is raised.
2. Yapp's 'no quibble' consumer guarantee applies to en primeur sales in the sense that the Buyer has the right to change their mind within fourteen days of the creation of this contract. No discount codes or vouchers are valid for en primeur purchases.
3. Title to wines shall remain with Yapp until all en primeur invoices due from the Buyer are cleared in full. Where any invoice is outstanding for more than 30 days, Yapp reserves the right to cancel the contract. In the event of accidental shortages, the Buyer will be refunded in full at invoice price.
4. When the wine is shipped to the UK we will confirm delivery or storage and raise any relevant invoices for VAT, duty, storage and delivery charges.
5. Yapp reserves the right to withhold any wines that the Buyer has ordered for non-payment of any invoice.
6. Risk of loss or damage to Goods shall pass to the Buyer when the Goods are physically delivered to or collected by the Buyer (or their agent).
7. If the Buyer is making their own arrangements for the storage, delivery or collection of the wine (as opposed to keeping it at Yapp), the Buyer agrees to notify Yapp of any defects in the wines within 30 days of the wine being released and after this period the Buyer will be deemed to have accepted the wines.
When the physical wine arrives IB in the UK we will contact you to advise you of any additional payments that are due in respect of duty and VAT (if you are withdrawing the wine from bond), storage or delivery charges, including IB transfer charges.
Your options are as follows:
Wine remaining Under Bond
1. If you have your own bonded arrangements at London City Bond ('LCB') you can advise us of the account details for an IB transfer. No further charge.
2. You can store your wine IB with Yapp Brothers. It will be held in the Yapp Brothers' Client Account at LCB. No further charge. You will, however, be charged storage, currently £15.00 per case, per annum, inc VAT (or £7.50 for a half-year).
3. We can arrange for LCB to deliver your wine IB to another bonded warehouse. Such IB transfers are charged at £15 per case up to 2 cases, £5 per case thereafter and must be paid before the transfer request is actioned. You will also need to advise us of account / ware-house details for the transfer.
Delivering & Storing Wine Duty Paid
4. If you would like us to organise delivery of your wine Duty Paid, we will do so under our normal delivery terms. In most cases this will mean no delivery charge.
5. You can store your wine at Yapp Brothers' premises Duty Paid, currently £15.00 per case per annum, inc. VAT (or £7.50 for a half-year).
6. When wine that has been held IB is withdrawn from a bonded warehouse, you will be charged duty and VAT at the prevailing rates on the original cost of the wine.
The current duty rate is £32.04 per case and the VAT rate is 20%. Therefore, the current duty and VAT on a £200 case of wine withdrawn from bond would be £78.45. (N.B. you pay VAT on the cost of the wine including duty).
