Sauvignon falls into the tiny category of grape varieties that are so popular that people order them in pubs and bistros without even specifying a preferred geographical point of origin – see also Merlot, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. While such a cavalier approach (which is even more prevalent Stateside than on these shores) may be leaving a lot to chance it does indicate a remarkable degree of consumer confidence. The trouble is that most grape varieties, even the most prolific ones, tend to be soil and climate sensitive and one has to pay a premium for the best viticultural real estate. If you walk into your local boozer and ask for ‘a large glass of Sauvignon’ you are unlikely to be given a glass of top-notch Sancerre or Pouilly Fumé.
Emilie at Domaine Gardrat
Just as the housing market is constantly looking for new hotspots with undervalued properties ripe for gentrification so wine merchants quest for hidden gems. We are indebted to our friend Isabelle Legeron MW for tipping us off about Domaine Gardrat in her native Charente a few years ago while she was researching her Master of Wine thesis. Here on the chalky uplands above Bordeaux a mild maritime climate, great light levels and a free-draining soil provide an ideal habitat for cultivating Sauvignon Blanc. Jean-Pierre and Lionel Gardrat’s wine does not have the weight and intensity of a premium Sauvignon Blanc with a premium price-tag but it does demonstrate an incredible lightness of touch – restraint even – and it is incontrovertibly great value for money. It has subtle elderflower and nettle aromas and a light, racy, almost ethereal palate with gentle mineral nuances and a delicate, dry finish. It works well as a versatile ‘out of the fridge’ aperitif or accompaniment to salads or seafood. If you were served a glass in a pub you would be thrilled!
I was fortunate enough to spend last Thursday lunchtime at Le Gavroche selecting the wines for our forthcoming Spring lunch. I took the opportunity to buttonhole the head sommelier David Galetti, who presides over a list of biblical proportions, about his personal recommendations of wines to accompany asparagus.
When English asparagus is in season, as it is now, it can’t be beaten and my personal philosophy is to enjoy it as frequently as possible so I was keen to hear David’s recommendations. His first observation was that if asparagus is properly cooked it should still have a little bit of a ‘croquant’ bite and that you must therefore select a wine that is ‘fresh’ and isn’t heavily marked with oak. Although Sauvignon Blanc is widely acknowledged as being the classic accompaniment (and they list our Pouilly Fumé ‘Les Loges’ from Dominique Guyot in bottles and halves at Le Gavroche - which would be a good match) David said that it probably wouldn’t be his first choice. He looks for a wine with ‘a hint of citrus’ and averred that it is important to have some savoury herb notes too. Pinot Blanc and dry Chenin Blanc ‘can work very well’ apparently – so I look forward to experimenting with some of those forthwith. David dis-recommended Chardonnay as a general rule “you don’t want anything too heavy, oaky or buttery” and surprised me with the revelation that his personal preference is for a Corsican Vermentino!
So what are you waiting for? Get the green spears of goodness on the stove and start experimenting with some fresh, clean Spring whites in the newly shipped 2010 vintage.
