Like the much larger Vouvray appellation to the North, Montlouis also enjoys free-draining calciferous limestone soils perfect for the Chenin Blanc grape. The Berger family's Montlouis from their Domaine des Liards in Saint-Martin-le-Beau is among this list's longest-running entries and is as enjoyable today as it has ever been. Their bottle-fermented, sparkling Montlouis Mousseux Brut has an appealing brioche bouquet, creamy mousse and zesty, ozone-fresh palate. It is a failsafe crowd-pleaser for all manner of gatherings and celebrations. Its still sibling is equally rewarding with attractive fleur blanches aromas and ripe apple flavours preceding a clean, dry finish.