Saint-Péray Wine
The diminutive appellation of Saint-Péray has just 103 hectares under vine and is the southernmost Cru of the Northern Rhône - lying below Cornas and north of Valence. This is an ancient area of viticulture specialising exclusively in white wine - 15% of which is sparkling. Effervescent wine was first produced here in 1829 when local vigneron Louis-Alexandre Faure researched how Champagne was produced and decided to deploy the same methodology in the Rhône. It quickly caught on and was enjoyed by European high society including such notables as Queen Victoria, Jules Verne and Richard Wagner. Unfortunately, the phylloxera pandemic arrested its development in the 1880s and despite successful replanting and the investiture of Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée status in 1936, it remains something of a rarity today that is appreciated by aficionados but denied a wider audience.
Jean-Louis Thiers' Domaine Biguet is comprised of 7 hectares of vines grown over 3 plots towards the south end of the appellation. He makes a reliable still wine (such still whites are described locally as tranquille). Made from pure Marsanne, it comes from old vines grown on clay-limestone and granite soils then vinified and raised in vats for 10 months before filtration and bottling. With appealing Bramley apple aromas and a rounded stone-fruit palate, it drinks well from release and makes a versatile partner to fish and chicken dishes. Jean-Louis' Saint-Péray Mousseux is also made from pure Marsanne which is bottle-fermented and dominates production. It is released after about 24 months and has a lively mousse, subtle citrus scents and an orchard fruit palate offset by fresh acidity. It makes a versatile aperitif and accompaniment to canapés.
The Clape family (of Cornas fame), own 0.91 hectares in Saint-Péray where they grow Marsanne and Roussanne on clay-limestone and granite soils. The finished still wine is a blend of 80% Marsanne and 20% Roussanne that is vinified and raised in concrete and steel vats for 7 months before bottling. With a bouquet of brioche, ripe peach and grilled nuts and a supple palate of yellow stone-fruit with mineral undertones, it drinks well after 1-2 years of bottle age and stands up well to seafood.
