Food and Wine Matching

Gallic Garlic and Herb Chicken   Michel Roux Junior is justifiably renowned for his contemporary take on classic Gallic cuisine at his world-famous, 2 Michelin starred temple of gastronomy Le Gavroche in Mayfair. He can however turn his hand to altogether less 'cheffy' cooking and it was from him that I gleaned this recipe for […]

Oranges are the Only Fruit   The problem with writing a seasonal monthly food and wine article is that it can get repetitive - so if you want to know how to 'devil and pull' a turkey you'll have to look back through our archive or invest in a copy of Jane Grigson's wonderful 'English […]

Roast Lamb Steaks with Broccoli, Chimichurri and Gratin Dauphinois This month's entry is, I concede, a questionable cross-continental mish-mash but I had been living out of a suitcase for ten days on a buying trip and it was what I fancied cooking and eating. I didn't refer to any texts so my quantities and timings […]

Poulet au Citron Now that my beloved (and vegan) progeny have departed to their seats of learning and the proverbial nest is empty (and tidy!) I look forward once more to roast chicken. I favour a simple recipe with lemons, for which I think Marcella Hazan is the fons et origo but I have cooked […]

I have previously praised Rukmini Iyer’s ground-breaking ‘The Green Roasting Tin’ for the variety of its recipes and their ease of execution. That said, Ms Iyer, like most of her profession, is disingenuous about some of her prep times. ‘Ten minutes’ might be viable with a sous-chef but I need at least quarter of an […]

Veg Every Day A recent trip to visit my octogenarian progenitress in Devon found her enthusing about a newly-acquired cookery book, the latest addition to an extensive library that dates back to battle scarred early editions of Robert Carrier and Elizabeth David. The volume in question was yet another offering from fellow Devonian, environmental activist […]

For various reasons my household is consuming much less meat these days but meaty fish, like tuna or swordfish, is a welcome ingredient when any committed vegetarians are absent. Griddled Tuna Steaks with Mexican Rice and Tomato Salsa [Serves 3-4 adults]. Mexican Rice: Olive oil Spanish onion x 1 Garlic cloves x 2 Long grain […]

To celebrate the end of exams and the school year I will be breaking out the barbecue in June for some relaxed entertaining at home. I favour a barbecue with a large surface area so I can bank the charcoal more heavily to one end and have a space without charcoal (and intense heat) at […]

Aspire to Asparagus When this sceptred isle is finally expunged from the map of Europe, we can take solace in the enjoyment of our native asparagus. The season runs from 23rd April (aptly Saint George’s Day) until the 1st June and during that window of opportunity I consume it with abandon. Salads, soups (both hot […]

One of my default dishes at Easter time is ‘Lamb Boulangère‘ or ‘Épaule d’Agneau Boulangère’ to give it its full French title. It can be prepared in advance and is simplicity itself to cook so wins on those counts. It is also seasonal, tasty and good for feeding quite a large family gathering – hence […]